Xtool F1 Ultra: 8 Questions I Wish I’d Asked Before Buying a Dual-Laser Engraver

Quick Intro: What This FAQ Covers (And What It Doesn’t)

I run a small laser service shop. I've been handling custom engraving and cutting orders for about 4 years now. In that time, I've made (and documented) enough mistakes that my team now has a pre-flight checklist before we run any new material.

When I first looked at the Xtool F1 Ultra, I thought: “Dual laser? Fiber and diode in one box? This solves everything.” It didn’t. Not because the machine is bad—it’s not—but because I had the wrong expectations. So I put together this FAQ to answer the exact questions I was asking (and the ones I should have been asking).

Here’s what we’re covering today:
• Can the F1 Ultra really cut metal?
• What about wood—does it beat a CO2 laser?
• How hard is color engraving?
• Is it a good first machine for someone starting out?
• And the question I never thought to ask: how do you avoid wasting $890 on bad settings?

1. Can the Xtool F1 Ultra Actually Cut Metal?

Short answer: yes—but only thin metals, and only with the fiber laser (20W).

I remember my first test: I loaded up a 0.5mm stainless steel sheet and ran a few cutting passes. It went through—barely (surprise, surprise: multiple passes were needed). The 20W fiber laser can handle sheet metal up to about 0.5–0.8mm for cutting, depending on the alloy. Thicker than that, and you’re better off using a dedicated fiber cutter.

Where the F1 Ultra impressed me was deep engraving on metal. I’ve done serial numbers on aluminum plates, logos on stainless steel tags, and even shallow cuts into brass—all with the fiber laser. The diode laser (10W) is for marking and engraving, not cutting, on metals (it’ll mark anodized aluminum but won’t touch bare stainless).

One thing I learned the hard way: your material prep matters. A scratched surface will engrave unevenly (ugh). And if the metal is too thin (like 0.3mm stainless), the heat can warp it. So my rule now: test on a scrap piece first.

2. How Does the F1 Ultra Handle Wood?

Better than I expected—but not as good as a CO2 laser for deep cuts.

When I compared the F1 Ultra’s diode laser (10W, 455nm) to my friend’s 40W CO2 machine side by side, the difference was clear: CO2 cuts faster and cleaner on thick wood (>6mm). The F1's diode laser will cut through 3–4mm plywood in one pass, but for thicker stock, you need multiple passes (and you’ll get some charring).

Where it shines is fine detail work and photo engraving. The beam is tight, so I get crisp text and images even on small items (like wooden tags or coasters). And the ability to switch to the fiber laser for metal markings means I can do mixed-media projects (like a wooden box with a metal nameplate) on the same machine.

It's tempting to think the F1 Ultra replaces a CO2 machine for wood. It doesn’t—at least not for thicker stock. But for thin wood (<4mm), precision work, and combination projects, it’s very capable.

3. Color Engraving: Is It Actually Useful?

Depends on what you want to do. For industrial marking? Not really. For personalization? Yes.

The color engraving feature works by controlling the heat from the diode laser to create different oxidation colors on metals like stainless steel and titanium. I’ve produced yellow, blue, purple, and gold tones on stainless steel tags—but the colors are subtle and depend heavily on the exact power/time settings.

In my experience, it’s not repeatable enough for production work. If you’re making hundreds of identical tags and need the same shade of blue every time, you’ll need a calibrated setup. But for one-off gifts or samples, it’s cool. I made a set of colored dog tags for a friend’s business—about 50 pieces—and the clients loved them.

One catch: color engraving requires the diode laser. You cannot do color engraving with the fiber laser (it’s monochrome marking only). So you need to plan your project accordingly (which, honestly, is a simple workflow switch).

4. What’s the Learning Curve? (Or: How Many Hours Before I Can Do Something Real?)

The hardware is easy. The software and material profiles will make you want to throw the machine out the window.

I’ll give you my timeline:

• Hour 1: Unboxing, setup, test engraving on included sample material. Pure excitement.
• Hours 2–4: Trying to engrave a simple metal tag with the fiber laser. Ended up with a burn mark (ugh). Spent 40 minutes adjusting focus and speed.
• Day 3: First successful cut on 3mm plywood. Happy dance.
• Week 2: Realized I needed different profiles for different wood types. Started a spreadsheet (I still have it).
• Month 1: Had my first paying order for 200 metal tags. The first batch (40 pieces) had inconsistent depth because I forgot to clean the lens.

If you’re patient with software tuning and are willing to test scrap materials, you’ll be functional within a week. The Xtool software (Xtool Creative Space) is decent—not as full-featured as LightBurn (which it supports), but good enough for most jobs.

5. Can the Fiber Laser Mark Different Materials? (And Which Ones?)

The 20W fiber laser is for metals and some plastics. Don’t expect it to mark wood (use the diode for that).

I’ve successfully used the fiber laser on:

• Stainless steel (engraving and marking)
• Aluminum (engraving, not cutting)
• Brass & copper (slow but works)
• Some plastics (like ABS, polycarbonate—test adhesion first)
• Hardened steel (for tool marking)
• Anodized aluminum (marks beautifully—I produce serial number panels for a local shop)

Materials it won’t work on: clear glass, clear acrylic, stone (the diode laser is better for those), and softer plastics that melt. The fiber laser is a heat-based process—materials that vaporize or burn easily are fine. Materials that melt or reflect the beam (like polished copper) are tricky (not impossible, but you’ll need to adjust focus and power).

One piece of advice I wish I’d had early: mark some test patterns on a scrap piece of each new material before running a full job. This is how I discovered that cheap stainless steel from my local supplier had a protective coating that left residue after engraving. Cost me $120 and a client’s patience.

6. How Does the F1 Ultra Compare to the LaserPecker 5?

Can I be honest? They’re both good machines for different users. My take: choose based on your materials, not the hype.

I’ve had a chance to test the LaserPecker LP5 for about a week (borrowed from a friend). Here’s what I noticed:

• Speed: LaserPecker is noticeably faster for small items (like jewelry and small tags). The galvanometer system is quick. The F1 Ultra (also galvanometer-based) is comparable in speed, but the upfront setup feels more manual.
• Depth: The F1 Ultra seems to have an edge for deep engraving on metals. The LP5 is more for marking and surface engraving.
• Material range: The F1 Ultra’s dual laser system (fiber + diode) covers more materials out of the box. The LP5 is diode-based only—so it won’t mark bare stainless steel.
• Price: Both are priced similarly (ballpark $2,000–$3,000 depending on package). The F1 Ultra offers more material flexibility; the LP5 offers better out-of-box speed for specific use cases.

If you’re doing high-volume small items on wood and anodized aluminum (like phone cases), the LP5 is tempting. If you need to cut thin metals and want to expand into fiber laser marking, the F1 Ultra wins. I chose the F1 Ultra because my work involves a lot of combination projects (metal + wood) and I didn’t want to buy two machines.

7. What About Guns? (Engraving Firearms)

Yes, it can engrave firearm receivers—but you need to understand the legal and technical requirements.

I get this question a lot (the keyword “xtool f1 ultra gun engraving” is popular for a reason). The fiber laser is powerful enough to engrave deep and permanent markings on steel and aluminum receivers. I’ve done serial numbers and logos on AR-15 lowers and pistol slides.

Here’s the catch: gun engraving requires a rotary tool for curved surfaces (like shotgun receivers and handgun slides). The F1 Ultra has a rotary attachment, but it’s not as smooth as a dedicated engraving machine. For flat surfaces (like an AR-15 lower), it works perfectly because the workpiece fits directly on the bed.

And obviously: check your local laws. In the US, ATF rulings on engraving require that markings meet certain depth and readability standards. The F1 Ultra can meet those with the right settings (0.003–0.005 inch depth, depending on material).

I still kick myself for not testing the depth first. On my first gun engraving job, I used a speed that was too fast. The marking was visible but shallow—barely passed inspection. I had to redo it (more passes, slower speed). That extra week of work cost me $200 and a good relationship with a client.

8. What Are Some Real-World Project Ideas for Beginners?

Start small, start cheap. My first paying projects were things I didn’t need a huge learning curve for.

If you’re new to laser engraving, here are ideas you can actually sell (from my own experience):

• Metal keychains with logos: Use the fiber laser to mark names or logos on stainless steel blanks. Fast, cheap materials, high perceived value.
• Wooden coasters/trivets: Engrave decorative patterns onto 3mm plywood or oak. The diode laser handles this beautifully.
• Anodized aluminum tags (like for tools or equipment): The fiber laser marks into the anodized layer, leaving a crisp white logo. High-demand for B2B work.
• Personalized gift items: Mix materials—a wooden box with a metal nameplate. The F1 Ultra’s dual laser lets you do both without moving the workpiece (after swapping laser heads).
• Small signage: Engrave or cut thin metal (0.5mm) for desk plates or directory signs. The fiber laser cuts clean edges if you use proper speed/power settings.

The idea that you need a $5,000 machine to start a business is wrong (surprise, surprise—it’s not about the machine, it’s about the workflow). I started with an order for 50 simple stainless tags. That $300 order paid for my first month of materials and gave me confidence.

Final thought: Don’t make my mistake—don’t try to do everything on day one. Pick one material and master it. For me, it was stainless steel tagging. For you, it might be wood coasters. The F1 Ultra is versatile, but versatility can be overwhelming. Start simple, build a process, and scale from there.